Best Dhabas in Delhi: Just down the road from Jantar Mantar

I'm a big believer in freedom of expression, which is why every so often, I find myself heading down to Jantar Mantar to...express myself. After a few hours a peaceful protest, a justice loving person can really work up a good appetite. So I often find myself in search of a good dhaba. My favourite so far is the one pictured on the right, about two blocks from protest central. Just across the street is a sign for the Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Smarak Trust Library.

There are actual several small establishments in this cluster of stand up eateries. Mostly you will be eating on eco-friendly, reusable steel plates, though you may get your tea in a plastic cup. Overall, the environmental impact of the meal you get here is bound to be lower than much more expensive sit down establishments that rely on energy intensive construction materials, AC cooling, and the like. 

Onion uttapam and sambar.

Be warned: especially if you go in for the South Indian joint on the right side of the row, you are going to have to contend with quite a crowd at peak eating times. Still, I've never seen the guy taking the orders make a mistake. Be patient--all those people are there because the food is good and the price is right: this place truly is cheap and best.  

A months back after a Free Binayak Sen Rally, we enjoyed an onion uttapam (Rs. 35); an order of idli (Rs. 20) and something else that I can't remember. But it was all tasty and good. So next time you are at a rally, why not stop by for some of Delhi's best and greenest food. You may be protesting, but your stomach and your pocketbook will have nothing to complain about.

For more green eats, go check out the Best Dhabas in Delhi on our Low Tech Green page.

Best Dhabas in Delhi: Jagdamba Bhog, Shahpur Jat

Shahpur Jat, one of South Delhi's urban villages, is undergoing a gentrification of sorts.  Along its edges, it is now possible to buy stylish shoes, pizza, high priced coffee, English books and more.  You can even get an artistic tatoo.  Small publishers, software engineers and artists have set up offices and studios in buildings which, until recently, provided crowded living quarters to local workers. 

It's hard to say how all this is affecting everyday life in the area.  On the upside, new business means new jobs, though most of the professional work goes to people from outside the neighborhood.  Still, some of the new businesses do hire local working class youth, educated in the area.  On the downside, rents are going up in certain parts of the village.  This is difficult for workers who are seeking low cost housing in South Delhi--of that, there can be little doubt.  This kind of displacement rarely makes the news, because it involves lease agreements and not bulldozers.  But it is displacement, nonetheless.  

How far will it go? That's hard to say.  The very density of the housing and the narrowness of the lanes makes it likely that a complete transformation of Shahpur Jat is unlikely to happen anytime soon.  And in many cases, ownership of buildings is shared; in those situations, renting out a floor is typically a lot easier than selling the whole building.  My guess is that unless someone very powerful organises a lot of bulldozers--something which seems unlikely at this point-- gentrification will remain an incremental, problematic process, pushing from the edges, slowly inward.

But this post is supposed to be a dhaba review, not an essay about gentrification.  Well, if you live or work or shop in or near Shahpur Jat, there are a lot of places you can eat.  Try them out--except the pizza place; skip that entirely--there are a lot of better choices.  

I spent some time in the area recently with a friend who works there, and I was impressed with Jagdamba Bhog, a small joint that serves a different dish every day. Some days, it's rajma chawal, some days it's chole chawal, some days it's kadi chawal.  Most days there's a sabzi and roti as well. The food is spicy and hot and is served on eco-friendly steel plates.  If you are lucky, you'll get a spot to stand and eat.  If you eat there in summer, you won't have AC of course, but you may catch a cool breeze from the dhaba's water cooler. Of course, take away is also an option.

Rs. 20 buys you enough food to fill most human beings up.  In fact, after a week of eating there, I had to let my belt out one notch--and that's not a joke!  This food is made for fellows who work hard for a living; it's not short on carbohydrates.  Still, the rajma itself tends to be pretty thin--protein is a little harder to come by on a Rs. 20 budget these days.  But if you feel shortchanged, appeal to the chef with a smile, and you will surely be rewarded!

To get there, find the road that runs along side the maidan that separates Shahpurjat from Panchsheel Park.  When you see the temple pictured at right, head straight in and don't stop until you reach the first T point.  On your right, you will find, Jagdamba Bhog. Simple, like much of what's good in life.  And you can rest assured knowing that your AC-free, locally grown, locally prepared meal is greener than most meals you'll find in Delhi.

Happy eating!

 ****

Sometimes greentech is really low-tech.  For more of the best dhabas in Delhi--and other green 'cheap and best' technology, check out our low tech green page!

Best Dhabas in Delhi: Gandhi Di Hatti, Lajpat Nagar Central Market

At the end of one of Lajpat Nagar Central Market's many lanes, you will find what may be the best lassi in South Delhi. There are many other things to try at Gandhi Di Hatti, but the lassi is what I keep going back for, again and again.

Environmentally speaking, Central Market gives a green a lot to think about. On the pavement, plastic toys from China are sold next to crafts made in local villages. There are shops full stationary and shops full of  household and kitchen products, some imported, some made locally.   Though Sarojini Nagar is better known for its export surplus, Lajpat Nagar has its share of inexpensive clothing and cloth. A person could spend hours at Central Market and come away with nothing on one visit and a large sack of clothes for under 200 rupees on the next.  Thousands of people do this every day.  About once a month, one of those people is Mrs. Batti.  And more often than not, I go along to keep her company.

On the whole, Central Market is far better than a shopping mall, environmentally speaking; it is mostly non-AC, and it has a higher proportion of local goods on offer than most elite malls.  Of course it's not perfect.  Export surplus, for example, is cheap only because it is the excess production of a global economy based on excess consumption--hardly sustainable! But my better half loves it, and one has to know when to keep one's mouth shut for the sake of familial harmony, no?

I like crowds, but I don't like shopping.  While Mrs. Batti is sampling the clothes in the 45 rupee shops, I roam the market looking for something to do other than talk to the guys selling belts. (I only have one waist, I say! I already have two belts--why would I need another?)  Usually I treat myself to some sort of street food.  In the summer, I might go for some bhutta,  in the winter, I like a plate of warm shakarkandi, some roasted peanuts, or aloo tikki on a bun. 

But whatever I'm eating, I almost always get myself a tall, creamy lassi from Gandhi Di Hatti.  It's not the cheapest lassi in town: after several price hikes due to inflation, a full steel glass will set you back 25 rupees. But a lassi like that is nearly enough to fill you up! If you can't handle quite so much, a smaller plastic cup costs Rs.14. 

Gandhi Di Hatti was recommended to my wife years ago by one of her friends. It serves all kinds of things, including Paneer Tika (Rs. 10), Bread Pakora (Rs. 7) and Bread Roll (Rs. 7). But like I said, I nearly always just order a lassi.

How to find get there:

You can find Gandhi Di Hatti by wandering the market looking for the blue and white sign that reads, "MALAIDAR PUNJABI LASSI."  Or you can walk straight into the market from the police station until you nearly reach the other main road. On your right, you will see the toilet pictured  at left under a "Bikanervala " sign. Take a right and head into the first lane you come to--some of the best lassi in town awaits you at the second stall on your left.

For more reviews of some of Delhi's best food carts, tea stalls, dhabas, and dives, check out our Best Dhabas in Delhi series.  And if you'd like to contribute a guest review, drop us a line!

Best Dhabas in Delhi: Little Dragon, Defense Colony Market

Today, we continue our Best Dhaba in Delhi series with a look at a Defense Colony market institution: Little Dragon.  Though not a dhaba in the traditional sense, this Chinese food cart has been doing business the low-tech, greentech way for more than a decade. 

I came to know about the Little Dragon from my favourite local autowallah, who swears by it.  "Always fresh,always good--cheap and best!" were his words. I've eaten there or done takeaway at least a dozen times.

Little Dragon has a lot going for it environmentally.  They serve a crowd of people daily on reusable plastic plates, and they send out deliveries within a three kilometer radius by cycle.  There is minimal energy used; there is no AC, and food is cooked over a simple gas stove.

Also, on the positive side, the menu offers extensive choices, ranging from soups to spring rolls; prices range from Rs. 30 to Rs. 75 and the portions are generous.  A full plate of Veg. Chowmein (Rs. 35) or Egg Chowmein (Rs. 40) will usually feed two, though you might order a bit extra if you are feeding growing boys. My kids love the food, and I like it also. And it's never made me sick, which is more than I can say about another place I shall not mention in that market! If you live in or near Defense Colony, you can even order by phone: 011-64536491.

On the downside, the Little Dragon has no seating. More importantly, if you have finer taste than my kids, you may be disappointed: "too much oil, too much salt," declared Mrs. Batti the first time we ate there.  And she's probably right.  Remember that autowallah who recommended it?  He just found out he's got high blood pressure.  What did the doctor say?  LESS OIL! LESS SALT!  (And a handful of pills.)

If you don't have high blood pressure and you are looking for a reasonably priced, reasonably good, environmentally friendly meal in the Defense Colony area, the Little Dragon may be the place for you!  

For more reviews of some of Delhi's best food carts, tea stalls, dhabas, and dives, check out our Best Dhabas in Delhi series.  And if you'd like to contribute a guest review, drop us a line!

Best Dhabas in Delhi: Sanjay’s, Near Sitaram Hospital

Every week, a few people come to the Dhaba looking for the real thing—a  place where you can get good food without the price or the frills you get in more conventional restaurants. Most of these visitors leave disappointed—we are, after all, a virtual dhaba, and the “fresh green” stuff we serve is green in the idiomatic sense of the word only. 

So this summer, I thought it would be fun to review a few of Delhi’s many real-life, brick and motor (or brick and tarp) dhabas.  After all, dhabas the ultimate in low-tech greentech, and if you think about it, most of them have an environmental impact that is almost non-existent, compared to fancier eating establishments.  If dhabas aren’t sustainable, then it's hard to imagine what would be.

 
Our Best Delhi Dhaba series starts on the road just outside Sitaram Hospital in the Qutab Institutional Area, behind the Qutab Hotel.  Mrs. Batti and I had just emerged from the doctor’s office and a cup of tea seemed just the thing to pick us up.

As you come out of Sitaram, and turn to the left, there is a row of dhabas on the side of the road.  We sat down at the first.  It doesn’t really have a name, but it is run by a man named Sanjay, so we’ll call it Sanjay’s. 

This dhaba offers outdoor seating under the shade of large trees and a plastic tarp.  There was no electric fan and no cooler, but a light breeze made the seating comfortable enough even at 11:00 am on a June morning. 

The décor was mixed.  I didn’t care much for the large Coca Cola advertisement under the counter.  But I liked the shoe that hung from the ceiling above.  On it was written that charm, commonly found on the back of trucks: Buri Nazar Wale Tera Mooh Kaala.

On the morning we ate, the spoken menu included a number of items, including bread omelet, alu paratha, and various kinds of biscuits and namkeen. In addition to chai, cold drinks and water from a matka were also available. 

We ordered a cup of tea each (Rs. 5) and an alu paratha to share (Rs. 10).  The tea was fine—standard dhaba fare, served in a plastic cup.  We had to wait 10-15 minutes for the paratha, but it was well worth it.  It was large, steaming hot, and not too oily.   It was served on a steel plate with a generous portion of pickle.   The picture you see to the right is after we’d eaten about half of it--it was so good, we couldn't wait for me to figure out how to use the low-quality camera on my wife's phone.  

Mrs. Batti, who is not easy to please when it comes to parathas, agreed with me about the quality of this one—she declared it “excellent” and said some nice things about the heat of the pan and the variety and freshness of the fillings. 

Looking at this dhaba from an environmental point of view, it looses some points for the plastic cups and bottles it uses.  And not only are the contents of those foil packs of gutka and paan bad for you (which is why I quit buying them a long time ago in spite of their addictive qualities) the packages are, quite simply, just little pieces of litter waiting to happen.

On the positive side, this being Delhi, most of the plastic will end up getting recycled, and in the long run, it would be easy to replace those plastic cups with clay ones.  The low-tech, open air structure didn’t take much energy to build, and it takes very little energy to operate and maintain.  As for the food, most of it consists of atta, eggs, and fresh vegetables cooked over a gas stove—it’s hard to object to that!

So if you find yourself killing time at Sitaram’s and you want to have a low-tech, green tech kind of breakfast, then I’d say you will be hard pressed to find a better place to eat than this.  Convenient location, low prices, decent service—and some of the best alu parathas in South Delhi—make this one of Delhi’s Best Dhabas.